A new song, on which I am working. It’s a rough cut, pretty raw, with a little compression to make it pop.
Forget the sponsors. Forget the media frenzy. Forget the points and the money and the trophies and the sex appeal. Forget the product placement Redbull hat and drink they passed to Jordy Smith after his final winning heat against John John Florence. Forget the hype. Forget it.
Focus your attention on the surf and surfer. Both ocean and rider don’t give a shit.
(You can also view these all over at Flickr, if you so choose.)
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I will be forever in awe of this woman. Enjoy.
“Most of my wandering in the desert I’ve done alone. Not so much from choice as from necessity, I generally prefer to go into places where no one else wants to go. I find that in contemplating the natural world my pleasure is greater if there are not too many others contemplating it with me, at the same time.” – Edward Abbey, Desert Solitare